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First part. Notes and insights of a local climber from Berlin, Germany, who tries to set the inner conflict of being a climber, connected to the mountains, and still deciding to live in a flat big city. Dealing with the opportunities one must forgo, the desire to travel it maintains and the creativity it requires to find what to climb on.

Berlin is not exactly what you have in mind when imagining places to go climbing. It is grey, urban, and, most of all, flat. Located in the middle of the north European plain, the major city of Germany has no mountains anywhere on its horizon but still, nevertheless, contains an extensive and active community of climbers, with a great variety of places to climb, a mixture of different styles and of course, a touch of history.

Like many big cities nowadays, most of Berlin’s lively community focuses on bouldering. The sport that took over and spread beautifully among urban souls brings together high-tech developers, dirtbag mountaineers and adventurous dates. The proximity of bouldering gyms to the centre of cities makes it easy for anyone to try it out, maintain their strength or casually work out with friends. Unlike other types of climbing, bouldering doesn’t require anything but shoes and a chalk bag, and it is no surprise it attracts so many, becoming a worldwide rising trend by itself.

The metropole has many climbing gyms to show, at least 10 for bouldering and 5 for rope climbing, together with different playgrounds with city-sized boulders and artificial walls. These are home to the thousands of climbers who attend them regularly, take care of their maintenance and develop unique opportunities for the climbers who choose to be located in the German capital. Besides the different types of climbing that can be performed (bouldering, sport routes, trad climbing), there are also a variety of styles one can approach, from competition style boulders problems that are taking the world by storm and influencing a lot of the direction of route setting, to rigid, dirty concrete ruins, full of graffiti and not always friendly to try.

Lastly, to finish introducing this niche topic, we will dive into the historical point of view. Berlin took a massive part of Germany’s history during the last century, shaping the city into how it looks today. Some bunkers built during the two world wars are used today to climb on. The combination of ruined concrete and climbing could sound weird to some and inevitable to others. Ultimately, it creates a great local experience that is unique and true to the place. Berlin climbers show that where there is a will, passion, and the urge to climb rises, there will always be walls to be found.

I’ll end up with two of my favourite quotes that I think complement each other and summarise well the great combination between architecture and climbing:

“Architecture appears for the first time when the sunlight hits a wall.
The sunlight did not know what it was before it hit a wall.” Louis Kahn

“Walls are meant for climbing.” The North Face

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Berlin is a city steeped in history and culture, with a rich and complex past that has left its mark on the urban landscape. For those interested in exploring the city’s hidden corners and forgotten spaces, urbex and climbing offer a unique and exciting way to experience Berlin’s history and architecture.

Urbex, short for urban exploration, is the practice of exploring abandoned or off-limits spaces in urban areas. In Berlin, there are many opportunities for urbex enthusiasts, from abandoned factories and train stations to Cold War-era bunkers and military installations.

One of the most famous urbex locations in Berlin is the Spreepark, an abandoned amusement park that has been closed since 2002. The park features eerie, decaying rides and attractions, and has become a popular destination for urbex photographers and explorers.

Climbing is also a popular activity for those looking to explore the city’s unique architecture and landscapes. In particular, climbing on Berlin’s concrete walls has become a popular pastime for urban climbers.

One of the most notable locations for urban climbing in Berlin is the Teufelsberg, a Cold War-era listening station located on a hill in the western part of the city. The station was used by the US and British intelligence agencies to monitor radio signals during the Cold War, and its towering concrete structures now offer a challenging and exciting climbing experience.

Another popular location for urban climbing in Berlin is the Flak Tower in Humboldthain Park. The tower was built by the Nazis during World War II as an anti-aircraft gun platform, and its massive concrete walls and stairwells provide a unique and challenging climbing experience.

Of course, it’s important to remember the history and significance of these locations when exploring them through urbex or climbing. The Teufelsberg and Flak Tower are both reminders of the city’s tumultuous past, and their use as recreational spaces can be seen as controversial by some.

However, when approached with respect and awareness of their historical significance, urbex and climbing can offer a unique and rewarding way to experience Berlin’s rich history and culture. By exploring these hidden corners of the city, we can gain a deeper understanding of the forces that have shaped Berlin and its people, and appreciate the beauty and complexity of its urban landscape.

Ready to climb?

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Adventure tourism has grown exponentially worldwide. It is one of the fastest-expanding tourism sectors, and with the post corona opened borders, the opportunities are endless. While a precise evaluation of adventure tourism’s global economic value is not a clear task due to its unrefined scope, its monetary and non-monetary benefits have been highlighted.

Adventure tourism involves adventurous and physically challenging activities, such as hiking, trekking, mountaineering, rock climbing, rafting, and so on.

According to a report by Allied Market Research, the global adventure tourism market size was valued at $586.3 billion in 2019 and is expected to reach $1,626.7 billion by 2027, registering a CAGR of 13.3% from 2020 to 2027. This indicates a significant growth potential in the adventure tourism industry.

What are the drivers of this increased demand? The UNWTO (2014) suggests that increased urbanisation and digitalisation are pushing travellers to seek active, authentic experiences that highlight natural and cultural values. The adventure tourism industry therefore provides much sought-after escapes as well as ecological, cultural and economic benefits to destinations (Janowski, Gardiner, & Kwek, 2021). 

Indeed, adventure tourism contributes greatly to local economies: approximately two-thirds of the money spent on adventure travel stays on location. This is approximately €350 per day per visitor on average (CBI, 2021).

Additionally, it creates job opportunities and generates revenue for businesses in the tourism sector. According to a report by the Adventure Travel Trade Association, adventure tourism generates $683 billion in annual revenue and supports 41 million jobs worldwide.

These benefits include attracting high-value customers, the encouragement of sustainable practices, and support of local economies due to low economic leakage (Adventure Travel Trade Association, 2016; UNWTO, 2014; Janowski, Gardiner, & Kwek, 2021).

Additionally, the growth of social media platforms has also contributed to the popularity of adventure tourism, as more people seek to share their experiences on these platforms.

In conclusion, adventure tourism is a rapidly growing industry that offers unique and thrilling experiences for travelers. With growing interest in outdoor activities, and a wide range of adventure tourism options, the market is expected to continue to grow in the coming years.

• Adventure Travel Trade Association. (2018). 20 Adventure Travel Trends to Watch in 2018. Retrieved from https://cdn.adventuretravel.biz/research/2018-Travel-Trends.pdf.
• Beckman, E., Whaley, J. E., & Kim, Y.-K. (2017). Motivations and experiences of whitewater rafting tourists on the Ocoee River, USA. International Journal of Tourism
• CBI. (2021). The European market potential for adventure tourism. Retrieved from. https://www.cbi.eu/market-information/tourism/adventure-tourism/adventure-tourism/market-potential
• Cheng, M., Edwards, D., Darcy, S., & Redfern, K. (2018). A tri-method approach to a review of adventure tourism literature: Bibliometric analysis, content analysis, and a quantitative systematic literature review. Journal of Hospitality & Tourism Research, 42(6), 997–1020. https://doi.org/10.1177/1096348016640588.
• Janowski, I., & Reichenberger, I. (2019). Conceptualising Adventure Tourism from a Consumer Perspective. Paper presented at the travel and tourism research association 2019 international conference.
• Janowski, I., Gardiner, S., & Kwek, A. (2021). Dimensions of adventure tourism. Tourism Management Perspectives, 37/2021, 1–11.
• Sung, H. Y., Morrison, A. M., & O’leary, J. T. (2000). Segmenting the adventure travel market by activities: From the North American industry providers’ perspective. Journal of Travel & Tourism Marketing, 9(4), 1–20.
• UNWTO. (2014). Global Report on Adventure Tourism. Retrieved from. https://doi.org/10.18111/9789284416622.

a two-handed travelogue by anna and ludo climbing and powder skiing on japanese volcanoes in hokkaido island 

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ludo writes:

Here we are: it’s 4 February, off to Japan. Tomorrow we are skiing on the long-awaited powder snow in Hokkaido. Departing from Italy, Germany, the UK and Switzerland, and after a 24+ hours flight, we meet up and get to know each other at Sapporo airport, the main city on the island where we will spend the next 8 days. We leave Sapporo heading for Niseko, an hour and a half drive to our accommodation.    

The centimetres of snow on the roadsides increase as we approach our destination. Reaching our village in the moonlight, it feels like an enchanted place. Our house is a gem, in pure essential Japanese style and with a large common room on the upper floor with full-length windows from which we will be able to enjoy the view of Mount Yotei weather permitting. We unload skis and suitcases from the van, sort ourselves into the four bedrooms and say goodnight with appointment for 8.30am the next morning.

anna writes:

Our first day in Hokkaido was simply awesome! We kicked things off with a hearty breakfast of eggs and cereal at home, and we were all set to go by the time we hit the rental shop at 8.30. We were super stoked but also a bit nervous about what was in store for us. We were all set with our gear and ready to hit the slopes in Niseko Yotei Skiresort, but we weren’t sure how tough it would be. Turns out, we had nothing to worry about. We started with some chill runs, taking the lifts up and skiing down the pistes or off-piste areas where the snow was deep and untouched. It was pure bliss! We even did a short backcountry tour to explore some fresh powder without any marked trails. Our two guides were super cool and made sure everyone was comfortable and having fun. By the end of the day, we were all pumped up and excited about what the rest of our trip at Hokkaido had in store for us.  

anna writes:

Dinner at home with Japanese version of pasta al ragu’, a nutritious frittata with potatoes and vegetables and a salad. Great teamwork for both the cooking and clean-up part! 

ludo writes:

After breakfast, we set off towards Rankoshi, a 20-minute drive from our base. Anna got slightly injured yesterday, so she is resting in Niseko for the day. Once we reached the area where we were to leave the van, we could not resist taking a few pictures of the walls of snow around us. We put on our skis and set off along what in summer and spring is a wheeled road for a few kilometres. We arrive at the foot of the modest summit, which allows us to repeat it a couple of times and have twice the fun of the powder snow descent. For the return journey, we take an alternative route that passes between the much infamous onsen.

Early to bed because tomorrow, Mount Yotei awaits us.

anna writes:

Day three was easily one of the sickest days for all of us. We decide to climb up Yōtei volcano, which looks like a mini-Fuji. The ascension was 1300 mt and we started our backcountry tour from the bottom of the volcano. We took breaks every hour for food and water since it was a long journey, but we had loads of patience and endurance. It was windy as hell up there! At first, the trees offered some protection, but as we got higher, the wind and the snow got icier.  

ludo writes:

Much motivated by Lorenzo, some of us set out to reach the crater of Mount Yotei, and what can I say… the effort was 100% worth it: a crater 700 m in diameter filled with snow opens up in front of us. We take a few photographs and start to descend. We reach the point where we had left our skis 20 metres below the crater to summit and begin one of the most beautiful ski runs of my life: a magical experience that is hard to put into words. From the alpine landscape of the peak, we soon enter the birch wood to arrive at the foot of the volcano and walk the last stretch that takes us to a village that seems untouched by the passing of time. We return home in the van with magic in our eyes and I admit, a sense of having done something epic. 

anna writes:

To top the epic day off, I decided to go for a little night skiing sesh at Niseko Yotei Skiresort all alone for an hour and a half before dinner. It was just me, the moonlight, and some lights. So freaking cool!  

Dinner at Kougetsu Izakaya, where we tried almost everything the house had to offer. Delicious!

ludo writes:

After the feat of climbing Mount Yotei on the third day, we opt for a less demanding trip on the fourth. We choose the summit of Mekunnai, which is a 1000m climb from the top of the chairlift of the ski resort nearby. The ascent is excellent for practicing inversions and the scenery is, as always, breathtaking, with plants bent by the wind and covered in snow that makes them look like sculptures. 

When we reach the top, we remove the skins from our skis and start to descend through various groves. It begins to snow heavily. I have never seen a snowfall like this, and in a matter of seconds, snow piles up on our heads, shoulders, and backpacks. We lose the trail, and what was supposed to be an easy walk turns into another adventure, but once again, it was worth it. How often do you find yourself in the middle of a Japanese wood with meters of snow falling in front of you?

Once we find the trail, we reach the van and drive home. Dinner at Kimura, a very cosy place in the village of Kutchan. 

anna writes:

The 5th day was rad! We went to Rusutsu resort for a backcountry tour with 1000 meters of ascent. We started off in the trees and it was chill, but it got steeper as we went up. The weather was sunny at first, but it started getting colder and foggy as we climbed, which was kind of freaky since we didn’t know where we were going. Luckily, Lorenzo, our guide, had a GPS and helped us out. When we finally reached the peak, we took a sick photo to show off our achievement. The name of the mountain was in Japanese, which was super cool and exciting for a tourist like me! We made our way down carefully through the fog and the last part of skiing through the trees and the animal tracks on the snow was like something out of a Snow White movie. We ended the day at a sushi bar in Niseko where we had some of the freshest fish ever! 

ludo writes:

The penultimate day… We decide to take it easy on the lifts and head to nearby Sapporo to spend the evening in town. We park at the Kokusai Ski Resort and after a couple of runs down the slope, we put on our skins and leave the resort. It really only takes 20 minutes with the skins on and you end up with snow at your knees that is still almost untouched. We enjoy our last rides and experience the hut at the bottom of the slope with proper Japanese dishes. After skiing, we drive to Sapporo where we visit the Sapporo Snow Festival: ice sculptures with projections, live music and pop-up shops from the festival’s sponsors. For dinner, we look for a sushi bar and find one on one of the main streets in the centre, which, with its neon lights and maxi-screens on the facades of the tall buildings, brings us back to the technological reality of Japan, so different from the more rural parts of Hokkaido of the previous days.

ludo writes:

For the last ski day we decide to go on a ski tour and peak Mount Mekunnai. Visibility is not the best and we struggle a bit finding the way. It starts to snow quite heavily but we proceed determined. My wrists hurt like hell, already from the second day of skiing I have started to feel pain which has increased until I can’t even hold the poles properly. So I decide to attach them to my rucksack and ascend without them, I will only take them back for the descent. Of course, it’s more effort because I don’t have the strength in my arms to help me.  After 1210 metres of ascent, we take off our skis to do the last 10 metres and reach the summit. Enormous satisfaction and desire to soak up as much of the environment as possible because tomorrow we leave to go home. On the way back to the resort we stop at Onsen Motomiya Yakushi Shrine where we get well-deserved hot and cold baths. A real panacea! We are the only westerners inside the thermal water baths. We are therefore also completely immersed in the local culture. 

For dinner, we return to our beloved Kuchan and eat at a delicious inn called >うたり. We order a mix of dishes to share and head to bed well-nourished ready for tomorrow’s departure.

anna writes:

The 7th day was the last day of our epic adventure. We all got up at an ungodly hour, 4.30 am, and piled into our van with Diego, our guide, behind the wheel. He drove us for a solid 2 hours back to the airport. My buddy Davide and I said goodbye to the gang and ventured off to explore Sapporo. First stop was the Nijo Market, where we tried some amazing seafood. Then we went on a shopping spree and boy did I go wild for all the cheap and cool cosmetics products. I spent all my yen there, but it was worth it. To cap off the trip, Davide and I hit up a sushi joint, which allowed people to smoke inside, which was pretty wild. Eventually, it was time to head to the airport, and we took a taxi for an hour to get there. We said our goodbyes, and even though the trip was over, the memories of that amazing adventure will always be with me.