SkiAlp’Xperience 2026

SkiAlp’Xperience 2026

by | Jan 20, 2026 | About NIVA, Vertical Destinations

SkiAlp’Xperience 2026: quando la montagna diventa esperienza condivisa

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Ci sono modi diversi di vivere la montagna. C’è chi cerca la prestazione, il tempo migliore, il dislivello più impegnativo. E poi c’è chi sceglie di rallentare, ascoltare, osservare. SkiAlp’Xperience nasce proprio da questa seconda visione: un modo autentico e consapevole di vivere l’outdoor invernale, lontano dalla competizione e vicino alle persone.

SKIALP'XPERIENCE 2026

Al via in Valle D'Aosta e Valle Maira la sesta edizione

Dal 10 gennaio al 18 aprile 2026 prende il via la sesta edizione di SkiAlp’Xperience, un evento che invita a vivere la montagna in modo libero, consapevole e inclusivo, lontano dalla competizione e dalla ricerca della performance.

Cos’è SkiAlp’Xperience?

SkiAlp’Xperience è nato nel 2021 con un’idea semplice ma potente: vivere la montagna senza l’ossessione della performance. Nessuna gara, nessuna classifica, nessun record da inseguire.

Qui non contano i tempi né il mezzo utilizzato. Gli itinerari possono essere affrontati con sci, splitboard, ciaspole o a piedi. Ciò che conta è l’esperienza: la salita, il silenzio, il paesaggio, l’incontro con altre persone che condividono lo stesso approccio.

È un invito a rallentare, a scegliere il proprio ritmo e a riscoprire il valore del tempo passato in montagna, con rispetto per l’ambiente e responsabilità, anche nel modo in cui raccontiamo le nostre esperienze.

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Le novità dell’edizione 2026

L’edizione 2026 segna un passaggio importante: SkiAlp’Xperience si svolgerà in contemporanea in due territori straordinari.

DOPPIA LOCATION

Valle D'Aosta | Valle Maira

Accanto alla storica e consolidata edizione in Valle d’Aosta, SkiAlp’Xperience 2026 introduce la Valle Maira, territorio di grande fascino, ricco di itinerari naturali, storia e cultura occitana. La formula e le modalità di partecipazione restano invariate, permettendo ai partecipanti di scegliere liberamente dove e come vivere la propria esperienza.

NUOVA LOCALITÀ IN VALLE D’AOSTA

Morgex

Si amplia ulteriormente il ventaglio degli itinerari valdostani con l’introduzione di Morgex, che ospiterà le classiche salite al Colle della Croce e al Mont Colmet, percorsi di grande interesse paesaggistico e tecnico.

NUOVE COLLABORAZIONI

PeaksHunter | Sirdar Montagne et Aventure

PeaksHunter, per entrare nel mondo ORTOVOX, sinonimo di sicurezza e cultura della montagna;

Sirdar Montagne et Aventure, per ampliare e valorizzare le esperienze con le ciaspole, rendendo l’evento ancora più accessibile e trasversale.

NIVA: la tecnologia al servizio dell’esperienza

Durante SkiAlp’Xperience 2026, NIVA accompagnerà i partecipanti con:

 

  • mappe interattive degli itinerari,
  • chat dedicate per condividere informazioni sulle condizioni e organizzarsi,
  • la possibilità di segnare e tenere traccia di tutte le uscite completate,
  • strumenti pensati per rafforzare sicurezza, condivisione e senso di comunità.

 

Una collaborazione che nasce da valori comuni: vivere l’outdoor in modo autentico, responsabile e connesso.

Un’esperienza che è anche incontro

CAMPO BASE: Vinosteria Antirouille

Ogni esperienza ha bisogno di un luogo dove ritrovarsi. Per SkiAlp’Xperience 2026 questo luogo è la Vinosteria Antirouille di Aymavilles, vero e proprio campo base dell’evento.

Dopo la gita, Antirouille diventa spazio di condivisione: una birra, un buon bicchiere di vino, una cena, racconti di salite e discese, nuove amicizie che nascono attorno a un tavolo.

Perché SkiAlp’Xperience non è solo ciò che accade in montagna, ma anche ciò che succede prima e dopo, nei momenti di incontro.

Vieni a trovarci

Con il patrocinio di:

    ORTOVOX

    Main Sponsor

    ORTOVOX, brand di riferimento nell’attrezzatura da montagna, è Main Sponsor di SkiAlp’Xperience 2026. Una collaborazione che nasce da una visione comune: sicurezza, responsabilità, rispetto dell’ambiente e delle persone che lo vivono.

    Scopri di più

    SkiAlp’Xperience 2026 è un invito aperto a chi sente che la montagna non è solo una vetta da raggiungere, ma un percorso da vivere.

    Non importa quanto vai veloce. Importa come stai, con chi sei e cosa porti a casa da ogni esperienza

     

    Unisciti a SkiAlp’Xperience 2026 con NIVA.
    La tua stagione outdoor inizia qui.

      👉 Scarica subito l’ app e scopri SkiAlp’Xperience 2026!

      Che stai aspettando?

      Scarica NIVA direttamente dagli Store
      Climbing Partners wanted — and found: A Community Journey in Chamonix

      Climbing Partners wanted — and found: A Community Journey in Chamonix

      by | Aug 21, 2025 | About NIVA, Community Writes, Vertical Destinations

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      There are climbs that teach you technique. And then there are trips that teach you how climbing actually happens — in conversations over dinner, in the brief trust of a belay exchange, in the shared fumblings of a crevasse-haul practice. Last week, Balandino, Lorenzo and our co-founder Mavi spent seven days in Chamonix. They climbed hard lines, practised rescue skills, slept in a busy youth hostel, and left with something the routes themselves can’t give you alone: partners, confidence and a renewed belief that community is the multiplier of every ascent.

      Day one: rehearsing the worst so the best can happen

      We began with a crevasse-rescue course — a deliberate, humbling start. There’s something necessary about spending a morning hauling and hauling again, building two-and three-to-one pulleys, learning where to put a counterweight and how the smallest mistake in a haul system can bite back. Practising crevasse rescue isn’t about alarmism; it’s about turning chaos into choreography. It builds muscle memory and reduces panic, and it transforms a rope team from a collection of individuals into an effective unit. For anyone approaching glaciated terrain in the Mont-Blanc area, this isn’t optional — it’s how you keep your friends and yourself safe.

      Starting with rescue also set the tone for the week: we were there to learn together, to share responsibility, and to be ready to step up for others.

      Our guide was Kyriakos Rossidis, who’s able to transmit both the techniques and passion.

      Routes and afternoons: finding flow and finding partners

      Over the week we threaded together classic multipitches and a few afternoons at valley crags — each climb a place to test movement and partnership.

      • Mani Puliti (D / 5b), with Kyriakos Rossidis. A lively, well-travelled line: mostly granite ribs and bolt-assisted moves that reward steady leads and confident seconds. With a guide, the flow is faster and the learning curve steeper.

      • Brunat-Perroux, Aiguille de l’Index (D+ / ~5c). Slabby, technical and exposed in places — Brunat-Perroux asks you to read the rock and trust each other’s calls on rope drifts and slab sequence. It’s the kind of route where good footwork and clear communication transform hesitation into flow.

      • Hotel California (D+ / 5a). A long, narrative climb — sections that demand attention, pockets for laughing at the right moments, and airy finishes where you breathe in all that valley light

      When we had time, we spent afternoons at Les Gaillands and Vallorcine — two complementary training grounds: Les Gaillands for quick laps, movement practice and social exchanges; Vallorcine for quieter granite faces and longer sequences. Those easy, concentrated hours are where partnerships actually form — you help tidy a rack, an experienced climber gives beta on a tricky move, you trade top-rope time and, five routes later, you’re no longer strangers.

      The alarm in the landscape: glaciers, heat, and the responsibility to act

      We also came home with a quieter, sharper worry. The glaciers and snowfields around the Mont-Blanc massif are changing: tongues are retreating, crevasse patterns are shifting, and warm spells are arriving earlier and harder. These changes are visible on approaches and in the trip-planning choices you make: ankles cross a melt-softened moraine, a glacial ramp has thinned, a once-predictable snow slope is now a tricky objective. That fragility isn’t someone else’s problem. It affects access, risk and the basic ethics of how — and when — we go climbing. We owe it to the mountains and to the partners we climb with to be informed, cautious and thoughtful about our impact.

      What Chamonix taught us about partners and platforms

      If there was one lesson that threaded the week it was this: climbing is social technology. It’s an interplay of skill, trust and timing. A great lead and a strong belay are obvious, but so are the more ephemeral qualities — patience on a long day, the willingness to carry extra water, the small calm that steadies a second halfway up a slab. Matching those qualities matters more than matching grades.

      That’s where NIVA sits. The app is not merely a list of users, events or routes; it’s a toolkit for partner-matching and event building:

      • Create an event for a multipitch day, specify skill needs (e.g. rope team size, glacier travel experience), and attract people who fit the plan.

      • Join pick-up sessions at Les Gaillands to practise movement and meet new partners in a low-stakes setting.

      • Share your rescue training plans and find others who’ve taken the same course — so you ascend with people who speak the same safety language.

      In short: create events, invite the right people, and form rope teams before you arrive at the crag.

      Practical takeaways

      1. Train together. Book a crevasse-rescue course and invite a partner or a group. Practising together builds trust and muscle memory.

      2. Use social spaces. Stay in a hostel or attend a local clinic — partner matches begin in common rooms and on drying racks.

      3. Start small. Use cliff afternoons (Les Gaillands, Vallorcine) to test teamwork and transitions before you commit to long approaches.

      4. Be climate-aware. Check glacier conditions and objective hazards; treat changing conditions as part of trip planning.

      5. Match intentionally. Don’t just look for the highest grade; look for complementary skills and compatible decision-making.

      A final word: partners make the climb — and the responsibility

      Chamonix gave us memorable routes and even better partners. We left with the satisfaction of long ledges and the knowledge that the mountains are changing. The best response to that contradiction — joy and fragility — is to climb with care, skill and community.

      If you felt that pull reading this — the itch to find the right partner for your next line — then do something about it: download NIVA, create an event, and find climbers who match your skills and values. Climbing is about movement up rock, yes — but more than that, it’s about the people you move with.

      Download NIVA and start creating or joining events today. Find your next rope team — in Chamonix, or wherever your next summit waits.

       

      What are you waiting for?

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      Get in touch

      SCALING VERTICAL COMMUNITIES

       

      © NIVA - Fjello S.r.l - Via della Boscaiola 14, 20159 Milan, Italy - Vat no IT12758420967
      The historical paths in Val di Mello and Val Masino

      The historical paths in Val di Mello and Val Masino

      by | Mar 31, 2025 | Educational Resources, History of Climbing, Vertical Destinations

      Tracing History on Granite: Exploring the Legendary Paths of Val di Mello and Val Masino

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      Have you ever heard of the legendary climbing routes of Val di Mello and Val Masino? In this blog post, we’ll take you on a journey through the Historical Paths of these iconic valleys – renowned as a true mecca for granite climbing in the Alps.

      These paths were designed by Michele Comi (IFMGA mountain guide and founder of the Melloblocco festival) with a dual purpose: one sporting – if we can call it that – and one more contemplative. They trace historic passages, lines of striking aesthetic beauty, and hidden gems that hold a special allure. But above all, they lead to countless boulders, perfect for climbing in great company.

      Thanks to NIVA, we’ve digitized navigation with an interactive map that allows climbers to pinpoint their location and discover key boulders. Plus, in collaboration with VirtuAlp, we’ve integrated a 360° experience – fully immersive in Virtual Reality – for an even deeper exploration of these iconic landscapes

      Each path, consisting of 10 boulders, are marked by a colour and a level of difficulty (5-6A, 6B-6C, 7A-7B): yellow for the Sassisti path, orange for the Melat path and red for the Gigiat path. By choosing a path and moving between the various boulders, located in Val di Mello but also in Val Masino, climbers will have the opportunity to explore nature and test themselves on some of the ‘problems’ that have made bouldering history. 

      So, let’s dive into these legendary paths and uncover their stories!

      I Sassisti (The Boulderers) – Yellow (5-6A)

      The first path is the easiest and is also suitable for beginners. It takes its name from the first boulderers in the valley, who have been active since the 70s, and reproduces their first creations.

      Il tendine dello Yeti (The Yeti’s tendon)

      A super classic route that is currently used as a warm-up to tackle the much more difficult routes on the boulder. In the days of the ‘sassisti’ (local boulderers) it was a medium level route graded VI, and in any case classified as a physical and overhanging route. The characteristic of the first passages, before the crash pad was invented, was the comfortable presence of a green lawn at the base.

      Il masso del tetto (The boulder of the roof)

      From the guide ‘l’arte del Buciùn’: ‘… a boulder with an incredible series of truly exceptional passages’. What can we say, a very beautiful rock for this classic of the Valley.

      Il panino (The sandwich)

      A boulder long forgotten after the period of rockfall, it has been reclaimed and cleaned several times during the Melloblocco® events. The proposed route consists of a gentle slab to enjoy the legendary Valmasino grip without worries.

      La preda peintada (The pintada rock)

       The name of the rock means ‘painted rock’. Now practically faded, you can still glimpse some geometric designs probably dating back to before the 80s. The passage is a beautiful steep slab with crystals, high enough to start looking down but still managing to enjoy the climb.

      Masso del francese (The Frenchman’s boulder)

      A steep slab with crystals, graded VII+ at the time. Here you can get an idea of climbing on smooth slabs, without the stress of having the last bolt metres and metres below your feet.

      Masso dell’Ivan (Ivan’s boulder)

      A route on a steep wall with notches, named after the legendary climber Ivan Guerini, who together with the climbers from Sondrio, contributed to the creation of incredible routes on the boulders at the bottom of the valley, and the opening of long routes in Val di Mello that have become legendary. Do Risveglio di Kundalini and Oceano Irrazionale remind you of anything?

      I tre strapiombi dei veronesi (The three overhangs of the Veronese climbers)

      One of the most climbed routes in Val di Mello, less trivial than it seems.

      Muro di Jessica (Jessica’s wall)

      A very elegant climb on a steep wall with crystals, in perfect Mellic style. The right height, with panache.

      Masso della luna (The moon boulder)

      Another foot climb, on a rounded granite slab; here the crystals are small, so arm yourself with patience and precision. Over time the rock has become more lichen-covered. A brush might be useful if you find it in a less than perfect condition.

      Geodes

      The slab gives way to vertical and physical climbing, reminding us that the granite in Val di Mello is not just adherent slab! A well-developed section following an obvious rib.

      Melat – Orange (6B-6C)

      Melat is the name given to the ancient inhabitants of the Mello Valley. All that remains of them are the stone stairways built in narrow places (and even today for many climbers with equipment for real daredevils!) to reach the most remote and inaccessible pastures. The Melat is therefore also the name given to the medium difficulty circuit, which requires strength and endurance.

      Spalla (Shoulder)

      A boulder climbed at the end of the 90s, at a time when modern bouldering was just starting in Italy. The first traverses were created, and this route, with a difficult initial single move, continues to the end of the boulder on nice holds.

      L’arco del tetto (The roof arch)

      One of the most iconic boulders in Valmasimo, photogenic, on perfect rock. A must for those who want to repeat historic climbs. The VII grade given in the 1984 guide ‘l’arte del Buciùn’ is still relevant today, maybe even a little too narrow?

      Titanic

      A boulder climbed at the turn of the 1990s/2000s, modern in conception at the time. The search for routes on slabs and overhanging holds, which were tried out by going to Fontainebleau, find an example of research and realisation here.

      Preda Peintada (Painted rock)

      A dihedral that requires technique and a little finger strength. The height of the move makes it exciting without entering the red zone. Definitely worth trying.

      Il francese (The frenchman)

      One of the first VIII+ climbed by the local climbers in 1980. Definitely a test piece of those years. The current 6c+ gives an idea of the level at the time. Strong fingers are necessary.

      Dr Zero (Stand)

      One of the most tested passages in the ‘Private Property’ sector in Val di Mello. Graded VII+ at the time, the current 6b grade is definitely not ‘easy’. The passage consists of a re-establishment on very poorly adherent slabs and the footholds are not much better; fortunately it stays in the shade for a long time.

      Masso della grotta (Cave rock)

      Passage graded VIII- in the 1984 guide ‘L’arte del Buciùn’, it is still a nice passage on crimps with a very high but easy exit. It is strongly recommended to check the descent by climbing the easy IVth grade passage on the opposite side of the boulder.

      Il lupo (The wolf)

      An exciting route. It consists of an aerial re-establishment with a fairly high but easy exit. Climbed at the end of the 90s, it is a route in its feared grade and not to be taken lightly. However, a boulder to do!

      Il traverso della polenta (The polenta crossbar)

      A very classic move. The ever-present white chalk marks indicate that the move is appreciated. It certainly helps that the traverse is about 1 metre from the ground and can be attempted alone and with practically no pads. You just need to have strength

      Moby Dick

      Clean prize-winning move at Melloblocco® in 2005. Here we are surrounded by dizzying walls, but still in a pleasant valley floor pasture. All you have to do is grab the holds and try this beautiful overhanging move.

      Il Gigiàt – Red (7A-7B)

      This is the most challenging circuit, dedicated to the great and legendary animal that populates the woods of the valley, together with gnomes and elves, a cross between a billy goat and a very long-haired ibex: the Gigiat. Closing this circuit is not easy at all, in fact there are some emblematic granite climbing routes here such as Tarzan, Vermut Stisciut and the Spigolo della Carrozza di Rame.

      Tarzan

      This is the most famous climb in Val Masino. Iconic, majestic, on perfect rock, north facing, high but with an easy exit, on crimps but with a sloper throw: what else? After the first timid attempts by boulderers, the first ascent of the climb was made by the Valtellina climber Cristian Gianatti. Simone Pedeferri established the sit start at the end of the 90s and completed the route that everyone should try, or at least go and have a go.

      Lo strapiombo – destra (The overhang – right)

      A great classic in the Visido area, the route climbs along a rounded edge that is very nice to climb, made up of compression and dynamic moves. Located in one of the sectors where the sun stays longer in winter, but even when it’s hot in the morning you can always try it. In the 1984 guide ‘l’arte del Buciùn’ the sit star passage obviously didn’t exist, but in its stand version, it was graded VIII-.

      Andrea si è perso – diretto (Andrea is lost – streight)

      A boulder that gives its name to the sector, climbed in 1982 by the strong climber from Turin, Marco Bernardi. A cutting-edge climb for those years. A simple re-establishment that, however, gave many boulderers a hard time. The holds and footholds are not that good. It requires strength but also sensitivity and precision. A classic not to be missed!

      Vermuth Strisciut (Vermouth Crawling)

      An abandoned boulder located in front of the boulder Remenno but separated by the stream Masino. An isolated boulder but certainly worth a visit: all the routes are good but this one, although short, will certainly give you satisfaction. Random throw to take first one then the other of the two final holds, overhanging and to be caught with precision!

      Devil and dust

      A clean climb at Melloblocco®, it develops well on fairly good holds with a slightly delicate exit. You’ll find it in one of the coolest areas of the Val di Mello, immersed in a pine forest and it practically never gets sun; this makes it perfect even for the summer season.

      Fat boy slim

      Passaggio was climbed at the end of the 90s, and even the name is cool, the boulder even more so. Freed by Simone Pedeferri, the route presents the first moves in compression followed by a precarious stretch on the way out. It’s very photogenic and certainly very nice to climb. For those who love the genre, there is also a sit start that adds difficulty to the boulder. It was a must for Gen Xers.

      Zero in condotta (Zero in conduct)

      A clean move at Melloblocco®; after an overhanging start on good holds, it develops along the edge of the boulder with an elegant climb and a nice final throw. Very easy to reach and in the shade for most of the day.

      Il francese – la placca (The frenchman – the slab)

      A legendary slab climb, almost vertical at the bottom. At Melloblocco® you’ll see many people trying it, but few climbing it. You’ll take some beautiful photos trying this route with the landscape of the Mello Valley in the background, in particular the mighty pillar of the ‘Precipizio degli asteroidi’ (Asteroid Precipice) where the legendary Oceano Irrazionale route climbs, first ascended by Ivan Guerini and Mario Villa way back in 1977.

      Videogames

      One of the first climbs in Italy to exceed grade Fb 7b. At the time it was the first Val Masino climb to be graded X-. The boulder was freed in the early 80s by the German climber Wolfgang ‘Flipper’ Fietz and to find something of equal difficulty in Val Masino you have to wait until the early 90s with Il sogno di Tarzan a Filorera. The move is essential; it consists of a dry re-establishment starting from a good notch. Try it for yourself!

      Spigolo della carrozza di rame (Edge of the copper carriage)

      A modern route on a boulder where the first climbers had climbed the easiest lines. The slabs to the right of the arete were once free of moss and the first climbers climbed them without a pad or rope; an example of the habit and confidence they had with friction climbing. The edge is a truly exciting passage: the first part is not difficult, and ends with the last movement of decision and coordination to reach the edge; luckily a charming flat meadow awaits those who make a mistake!

      Now that you have all the details about the paths and boulders, it’s time to go climbing! The NIVA app offers even more information and helps you connect with fellow climbers for your next adventure.

      Enjoy the valley!

      What are you waiting for?

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      Photo Credits: Tony Günther & Fabian Fischer

      Snowdonia of Sir Lewker

      Snowdonia of Sir Lewker

      by | Nov 12, 2024 | Books, Movies and Art, Vertical Destinations

      Snowdonia of Sir Lewker

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      Sir Abercrombie (“Filthy”) Lewker, a former commando and pompous Shakespearean actor is a fictional character invented by the English writer Glynn Carr. Filthy solves murders while mountaineering. One of his deed was the resolution of a mysterious murder in Snowdonia, presented in the book Death on the Milestone Buttress…

      Cover of the book “Death on Milestone Buttress”

      We don’t want to spoiler too much the book, which we found intriguing and interesting, but we’d like to give some information about the location of the story, Snowdonia, and the climbing attractiveness.

      Snowdonia or Eryri is a mountainous region and national park in northwestern Wales. It is a place rich in history, has seen figures from King Arthur to Mallory, Edwards, Kirkus, Brown, Whillans, Boysen, Livesey, and Fawcett and more.

      The name “Snowdon” means “snow hill” and is derived from the Old English elements “snāw” and “dūn”, the latter meaning ‘hill’. “Snowdonia” is simply taken from the name of the mountain.

      The origins of Eryri are less clear. Two popular interpretations are that the name is related to eryr, “eagle”, and that it means “highlands” and is related to the Latin oriri (to rise). Although ‘eryri’ is not any direct form of eryr (eagle), it is a plural form of eryr (upland).

      Before the boundaries of the national park were designated, “Snowdonia” was generally used to refer to a smaller upland area of northern Gwynedd centred on the Snowdon massif. The national park covers an area more than twice that size, extending south into the Meirionnydd area.

      Map of Snowdonia National Park

      This difference is apparent in books published before 1951. In George Borrow’s 1907 Wild Wales he states that “Snowdon or Eryri is no single hill, but a mountainous region, the loftiest part of which [is] Y Wyddfa”, making a distinction between the summit of the mountain and the surrounding massif. The Mountains of Snowdonia by H. Carr & G. Lister (1925) defines “Eryri” as “composed of the two cantrefs of Arfon and Arllechwedd, and the two commotes of Nant Conwy and Eifionydd”, which corresponds to Caernarfonshire with the exception of southwest Llŷn and the Creuddyn Peninsula. In Snowdonia: The National Park of North Wales (1949), F. J. North states that “When the Committee delineated provisional boundaries, they included areas some distance beyond Snowdonia proper”.

      Climbing in Snowdonia

      This area boasts an extensive variety of rock climbing experiences. Whether it’s cragging or high mountain routes, the climbs are mostly traditional and can be incredibly challenging and downright frightening, like in Glynn Carr’s book!

      Yr Wyddfa stands as the tallest peak in Snowdonia, and even though the National Park is home to multiple mountains exceeding 3,000 feet, this renowned mountain’s fame outshines all the others in popularity.

      Here is a selection of routes and climbs that we suggest:

      – Milestone Direct Route – Milestone Buttress

      Go experience the mountains of Glynn Carr book! Positioned close to the main road (A5) this route is easy to access. It can be difficult to find your foothold though due to the many climbers who’ve taken this approach over the years. Some bouldering is available nearby if you don’t have enough equipment for this hard very severe (HVS) climb.

      – Great Gully – Craig yr Ysfa 

      Great Gully is one of Craig yr Ysfa’s classic climbs. With a difficulty rating of grade three, it’s not advisable for inexperienced climbers. For those up to the challenge though, it’s a varied route with breath taking views from the top.

      – Gashed Crag, First Pinnacle Rib, Grooved Arete

      Boasting challenging yet popular climbs, you’ll be in great company on Gashed Crag, First Pinnacle Rib and Grooved Arete. Finding the routes can be complex, but no experienced climber should go home from Snowdonia without completing them. If bouldering is more your cup of tea however, there’s plenty on offer in Ogwen Valley.

      – Glyder Fach

      Depending on your ability, there are 97 climbs to choose from. From the moderate Main Gully Ridge on the east buttress to the extreme Slim Chance on the Hawks nest buttress, you’ll find plenty here to get stuck into.

      – Llywydd – Avalanche/ Red Wall & Longlands Continuation

      Routes steeped in history, Avalanche, Red Wall and Longlands Continuation were used as training for the Mount Everest team of 1953.

      What are you waiting for?

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      Some tales from Ísland

      Some tales from Ísland

      by | Aug 27, 2024 | History of Climbing, Vertical Destinations

      Some tales from Ísland

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      Iceland, often conjured in the mind as a realm of icy landscapes, geysers, and the mesmerizing Northern Lights, is not just a physical land but a confluence of history, literature, and geology. Let’s embark on a journey that traverses its diverse terrains, both literary and geological, while unveiling the rich tapestry of its past.

      Geology and Geography: Nature's Masterpiece

      Iceland’s geology and geography are as dramatic as its sagas. Situated on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, it’s one of the few places where the Earth’s tectonic plates can be observed on land. This position means that Iceland is geologically active, boasting numerous volcanoes, geysers, and hot springs.

      Its glaciers, including the vast Vatnajökull, are among Europe’s largest. These glaciers sculpt the land, creating fjords, valleys, and waterfalls like the iconic Gullfoss. Additionally, Iceland’s unique geography means it’s home to phenomena like the midnight sun during summer and extended darkness in winter, both of which have deeply influenced its culture and folklore.

      The Name "Iceland" and its Origins

      The name Iceland, or “Ísland” in Icelandic, translates to “Ice Land”. While seemingly direct, the story behind this name is more intricate. The name’s popular origin traces back to the Norse explorer, Flóki Vilgerðarson. His expedition in the 9th century led him to a fjord filled with ice, prompting the naming of the island as Ísland.

      Historical Names and Identity

      Long before it was widely known as Iceland, early explorers and inhabitants bestowed upon it various titles:

      • Snæland: Denoting “Snow Land”, attributed to Norse explorer Naddodd. 
      • Gardar’s Island: Named Gardarsholmi after its discoverer, Gardar Svavarsson. 
      • Thule: An ancient, mysterious location some believe to be Iceland. 

      But also – and these are fjello’s preferred ones 🙂

      • Fjalladrottning: Meaning “queen of the mountain,” highlighting Iceland’s majestic landscapes. 
      • Fjallkonan: Representing Iceland as the “lady of the mountain”, a symbolic figure embodying the nation’s spirit.

      Literary Legacy: The Icelandic Sagas

      Iceland’s literary contributions are epitomized by its sagas—detailed prose narratives depicting the adventures, conflicts, and lives of early Icelanders. Works like “Egils saga” provide an intimate look into the societal dynamics of early Icelandic communities. These sagas are not just tales but chronicles that bring to life Viking Age and medieval Norse culture.

      The Icelandic sagas, primarily penned between the 12th and 14th centuries, were based on older oral traditions. These are narratives written in prose that chronicle the events, exploits, and everyday life of the Icelanders and their ancestors from the late 9th to early 11th century—the so-called Saga Age.

      Distinctive for their deep realism, these sagas, while set in a time of heroic exploits and supernatural occurrences, are grounded in the tangible and the human. Unlike other medieval epics, they often eschew grandiosity, focusing instead on nuanced character development, intricate social dynamics, and the raw complexities of human nature.

      There are many types of sagas in Icelandic tradition:

      • Family Sagas (Íslendingasögur): These center on the lives of original settlers of Iceland, their descendants, and the conflicts they navigated. Notable examples include “Njáls saga” and “Egils saga.” 
      • King’s Sagas (Konungasögur): These sagas chronicle the lives of Scandinavian kings. “Heimskringla” by Snorri Sturluson, detailing Norwegian kings’ histories, is a prominent example. 
      • Legendary Sagas (Fornaldarsögur): Set in a time before Iceland’s settlement, these sagas blend history with mythology, presenting heroes, dragons, and magical feats. 
      • Contemporary Sagas (Samtíðarsögur): These offer insights into 11th and 12th-century Icelandic history, often with a more pronounced political slant.

      A Land Settled and Shaped

      Norse settlers, mainly from Norway, began arriving in Iceland in the latter half of the 9th century. Ingólfur Arnarson is often recognized as the first permanent Norse settler, establishing his homestead in what’s now Reykjavík. The “landnám” era saw a rapid influx of Norsemen and their Celtic slaves, laying the foundation of a new society.

      Iceland evolved into a unique Norse culture, influenced by its isolation and Celtic influences. The Althing, established in 930 AD, is among the world’s oldest parliaments.

      Far from being a mere land of ice, Iceland emerges as a vibrant interplay of history, literature, and geology. It’s a place where tales from sagas intertwine with geological wonders, making Iceland not just a destination but an experience, echoing the tales of yore amidst the whispers of its winds and waters.

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      Kalymnos: the mountainous island

      Kalymnos: the mountainous island

      by | May 17, 2024 | History of Climbing, Vertical Destinations

      Kalymnos: the mountainous island

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      Kalymnos is a picturesque Greek island in the southeastern Aegean Sea that has gained significant attention in recent years for its world-class rock climbing. But the island has a rich history that goes back thousands of years. In this blog post, we will take a look at the history of Kalymnos and how it has become a popular destination for rock climbers.

      Kalymnos is believed to have been inhabited since prehistoric times, with evidence of human settlement dating back to the Neolithic period. The island has been ruled by various empires throughout its history, including the Byzantine Empire, the Knights of St. John, and the Ottoman Empire. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, Kalymnos experienced significant growth as a result of the sponge diving industry. Kalymnian sponge divers were renowned for their exceptional diving abilities and their contribution to the economy of the island was crucial.

      However, following the introduction of synthetic sponges in the mid-20th century, the sponge diving industry declined rapidly, and Kalymnos was faced with an economic crisis. The island turned to tourism to revive its economy, and in the 1990s, the island’s rocky terrain and beautiful scenery caught the attention of rock climbers.

      The island’s rocky landscape, featuring impressive limestone cliffs and steep overhangs, offers a range of climbing opportunities for beginners and advanced climbers alike. In the late 1990s, a group of Italian climbers discovered Kalymnos and established many of the routes that are popular today. Since then, the island has become a mecca for climbers from all over the world.

      In addition to its beautiful climbing routes, Kalymnos also boasts an excellent climbing community, with local climbers and business owners working together to create a welcoming and inclusive atmosphere. The island has several climbing festivals throughout the year, which bring together climbers of all levels and nationalities to enjoy the sport and the island’s stunning scenery.

      In conclusion, Kalymnos has a fascinating history that dates back thousands of years. The island’s economy has transformed over time, from sponge diving to tourism, and its rocky terrain has become a popular destination for rock climbers. Whether you are a seasoned climber or just starting out, Kalymnos offers an unforgettable climbing experience in a unique and beautiful setting.

       

      References:

      • “Kalymnos: A Brief History.” Greek City Times, 16 Nov. 2020, greekcitytimes.com/2020/11/16/kalymnos-history/.
      • “The Island of Kalymnos: A Climbing Paradise.” Greece Is, 27 Apr. 2018, greece-is.com/the-island-of-kalymnos-a-climbing-paradise/.

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