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Have you ever heard of the legendary climbing routes of Val di Mello and Val Masino? In this blog post, we’ll take you on a journey through the Historical Paths of these iconic valleys – renowned as a true mecca for granite climbing in the Alps.

These paths were designed by Michele Comi (IFMGA mountain guide and founder of the Melloblocco festival) with a dual purpose: one sporting – if we can call it that – and one more contemplative. They trace historic passages, lines of striking aesthetic beauty, and hidden gems that hold a special allure. But above all, they lead to countless boulders, perfect for climbing in great company.

Thanks to NIVA, we’ve digitized navigation with an interactive map that allows climbers to pinpoint their location and discover key boulders. Plus, in collaboration with VirtuAlp, we’ve integrated a 360° experience – fully immersive in Virtual Reality – for an even deeper exploration of these iconic landscapes

Each path, consisting of 10 boulders, are marked by a colour and a level of difficulty (5-6A, 6B-6C, 7A-7B): yellow for the Sassisti path, orange for the Melat path and red for the Gigiat path. By choosing a path and moving between the various boulders, located in Val di Mello but also in Val Masino, climbers will have the opportunity to explore nature and test themselves on some of the ‘problems’ that have made bouldering history. 

So, let’s dive into these legendary paths and uncover their stories!

I Sassisti (The Boulderers) – Yellow (5-6A)

The first path is the easiest and is also suitable for beginners. It takes its name from the first boulderers in the valley, who have been active since the 70s, and reproduces their first creations.

Il tendine dello Yeti (The Yeti’s tendon)

A super classic route that is currently used as a warm-up to tackle the much more difficult routes on the boulder. In the days of the ‘sassisti’ (local boulderers) it was a medium level route graded VI, and in any case classified as a physical and overhanging route. The characteristic of the first passages, before the crash pad was invented, was the comfortable presence of a green lawn at the base.

Il masso del tetto (The boulder of the roof)

From the guide ‘l’arte del Buciùn’: ‘… a boulder with an incredible series of truly exceptional passages’. What can we say, a very beautiful rock for this classic of the Valley.

Il panino (The sandwich)

A boulder long forgotten after the period of rockfall, it has been reclaimed and cleaned several times during the Melloblocco® events. The proposed route consists of a gentle slab to enjoy the legendary Valmasino grip without worries.

La preda peintada (The pintada rock)

 The name of the rock means ‘painted rock’. Now practically faded, you can still glimpse some geometric designs probably dating back to before the 80s. The passage is a beautiful steep slab with crystals, high enough to start looking down but still managing to enjoy the climb.

Masso del francese (The Frenchman’s boulder)

A steep slab with crystals, graded VII+ at the time. Here you can get an idea of climbing on smooth slabs, without the stress of having the last bolt metres and metres below your feet.

Masso dell’Ivan (Ivan’s boulder)

A route on a steep wall with notches, named after the legendary climber Ivan Guerini, who together with the climbers from Sondrio, contributed to the creation of incredible routes on the boulders at the bottom of the valley, and the opening of long routes in Val di Mello that have become legendary. Do Risveglio di Kundalini and Oceano Irrazionale remind you of anything?

I tre strapiombi dei veronesi (The three overhangs of the Veronese climbers)

One of the most climbed routes in Val di Mello, less trivial than it seems.

Muro di Jessica (Jessica’s wall)

A very elegant climb on a steep wall with crystals, in perfect Mellic style. The right height, with panache.

Masso della luna (The moon boulder)

Another foot climb, on a rounded granite slab; here the crystals are small, so arm yourself with patience and precision. Over time the rock has become more lichen-covered. A brush might be useful if you find it in a less than perfect condition.

Geodes

The slab gives way to vertical and physical climbing, reminding us that the granite in Val di Mello is not just adherent slab! A well-developed section following an obvious rib.

Melat – Orange (6B-6C)

Melat is the name given to the ancient inhabitants of the Mello Valley. All that remains of them are the stone stairways built in narrow places (and even today for many climbers with equipment for real daredevils!) to reach the most remote and inaccessible pastures. The Melat is therefore also the name given to the medium difficulty circuit, which requires strength and endurance.

Spalla (Shoulder)

A boulder climbed at the end of the 90s, at a time when modern bouldering was just starting in Italy. The first traverses were created, and this route, with a difficult initial single move, continues to the end of the boulder on nice holds.

L’arco del tetto (The roof arch)

One of the most iconic boulders in Valmasimo, photogenic, on perfect rock. A must for those who want to repeat historic climbs. The VII grade given in the 1984 guide ‘l’arte del Buciùn’ is still relevant today, maybe even a little too narrow?

Titanic

A boulder climbed at the turn of the 1990s/2000s, modern in conception at the time. The search for routes on slabs and overhanging holds, which were tried out by going to Fontainebleau, find an example of research and realisation here.

Preda Peintada (Painted rock)

A dihedral that requires technique and a little finger strength. The height of the move makes it exciting without entering the red zone. Definitely worth trying.

Il francese (The frenchman)

One of the first VIII+ climbed by the local climbers in 1980. Definitely a test piece of those years. The current 6c+ gives an idea of the level at the time. Strong fingers are necessary.

Dr Zero (Stand)

One of the most tested passages in the ‘Private Property’ sector in Val di Mello. Graded VII+ at the time, the current 6b grade is definitely not ‘easy’. The passage consists of a re-establishment on very poorly adherent slabs and the footholds are not much better; fortunately it stays in the shade for a long time.

Masso della grotta (Cave rock)

Passage graded VIII- in the 1984 guide ‘L’arte del Buciùn’, it is still a nice passage on crimps with a very high but easy exit. It is strongly recommended to check the descent by climbing the easy IVth grade passage on the opposite side of the boulder.

Il lupo (The wolf)

An exciting route. It consists of an aerial re-establishment with a fairly high but easy exit. Climbed at the end of the 90s, it is a route in its feared grade and not to be taken lightly. However, a boulder to do!

Il traverso della polenta (The polenta crossbar)

A very classic move. The ever-present white chalk marks indicate that the move is appreciated. It certainly helps that the traverse is about 1 metre from the ground and can be attempted alone and with practically no pads. You just need to have strength

Moby Dick

Clean prize-winning move at Melloblocco® in 2005. Here we are surrounded by dizzying walls, but still in a pleasant valley floor pasture. All you have to do is grab the holds and try this beautiful overhanging move.

Il Gigiàt – Red (7A-7B)

This is the most challenging circuit, dedicated to the great and legendary animal that populates the woods of the valley, together with gnomes and elves, a cross between a billy goat and a very long-haired ibex: the Gigiat. Closing this circuit is not easy at all, in fact there are some emblematic granite climbing routes here such as Tarzan, Vermut Stisciut and the Spigolo della Carrozza di Rame.

Tarzan

This is the most famous climb in Val Masino. Iconic, majestic, on perfect rock, north facing, high but with an easy exit, on crimps but with a sloper throw: what else? After the first timid attempts by boulderers, the first ascent of the climb was made by the Valtellina climber Cristian Gianatti. Simone Pedeferri established the sit start at the end of the 90s and completed the route that everyone should try, or at least go and have a go.

Lo strapiombo – destra (The overhang – right)

A great classic in the Visido area, the route climbs along a rounded edge that is very nice to climb, made up of compression and dynamic moves. Located in one of the sectors where the sun stays longer in winter, but even when it’s hot in the morning you can always try it. In the 1984 guide ‘l’arte del Buciùn’ the sit star passage obviously didn’t exist, but in its stand version, it was graded VIII-.

Andrea si è perso – diretto (Andrea is lost – streight)

A boulder that gives its name to the sector, climbed in 1982 by the strong climber from Turin, Marco Bernardi. A cutting-edge climb for those years. A simple re-establishment that, however, gave many boulderers a hard time. The holds and footholds are not that good. It requires strength but also sensitivity and precision. A classic not to be missed!

Vermuth Strisciut (Vermouth Crawling)

An abandoned boulder located in front of the boulder Remenno but separated by the stream Masino. An isolated boulder but certainly worth a visit: all the routes are good but this one, although short, will certainly give you satisfaction. Random throw to take first one then the other of the two final holds, overhanging and to be caught with precision!

Devil and dust

A clean climb at Melloblocco®, it develops well on fairly good holds with a slightly delicate exit. You’ll find it in one of the coolest areas of the Val di Mello, immersed in a pine forest and it practically never gets sun; this makes it perfect even for the summer season.

Fat boy slim

Passaggio was climbed at the end of the 90s, and even the name is cool, the boulder even more so. Freed by Simone Pedeferri, the route presents the first moves in compression followed by a precarious stretch on the way out. It’s very photogenic and certainly very nice to climb. For those who love the genre, there is also a sit start that adds difficulty to the boulder. It was a must for Gen Xers.

Zero in condotta (Zero in conduct)

A clean move at Melloblocco®; after an overhanging start on good holds, it develops along the edge of the boulder with an elegant climb and a nice final throw. Very easy to reach and in the shade for most of the day.

Il francese – la placca (The frenchman – the slab)

A legendary slab climb, almost vertical at the bottom. At Melloblocco® you’ll see many people trying it, but few climbing it. You’ll take some beautiful photos trying this route with the landscape of the Mello Valley in the background, in particular the mighty pillar of the ‘Precipizio degli asteroidi’ (Asteroid Precipice) where the legendary Oceano Irrazionale route climbs, first ascended by Ivan Guerini and Mario Villa way back in 1977.

Videogames

One of the first climbs in Italy to exceed grade Fb 7b. At the time it was the first Val Masino climb to be graded X-. The boulder was freed in the early 80s by the German climber Wolfgang ‘Flipper’ Fietz and to find something of equal difficulty in Val Masino you have to wait until the early 90s with Il sogno di Tarzan a Filorera. The move is essential; it consists of a dry re-establishment starting from a good notch. Try it for yourself!

Spigolo della carrozza di rame (Edge of the copper carriage)

A modern route on a boulder where the first climbers had climbed the easiest lines. The slabs to the right of the arete were once free of moss and the first climbers climbed them without a pad or rope; an example of the habit and confidence they had with friction climbing. The edge is a truly exciting passage: the first part is not difficult, and ends with the last movement of decision and coordination to reach the edge; luckily a charming flat meadow awaits those who make a mistake!

Now that you have all the details about the paths and boulders, it’s time to go climbing! The NIVA app offers even more information and helps you connect with fellow climbers for your next adventure.

Enjoy the valley!